Reviewed By Joanna McQuillan Weeks

The Wave Restaurant & Bar
Casual dining
210 Spring St., Marion.

Hours: Breakfast 7 to 11 a.m. (until noon Sundays), lunch and dinner daily, cocktails until 1 a.m.
Handicap access: Ground-level entrance
Credit cards: Yes.
Reservations: Yes.
Phone: (508) 748-2986
online: www.thewaverestaurant.com

FOOD: 4
Service: 5
Atmosphere: 4
Cleanliness: 4
Price/value: 4 1/2

With a new year came a change of ownership for a Marion landmark, The Wave Restaurant, so we decided it was time for a revisit.

Loring and I stepped through the entrance to find that the dining room remains virtually unchanged. Personally, I was glad to see that overzealous renovation had not claimed the charming seaside murals that border the dining space. Fish continue to swim serenely in the aquarium that separates the small bar from the seating area.

We had no trouble claiming a booth at about 6 on a Wednesday evening, when a little less than half the tables were occupied. More diners were shortly to join us.

Loyal fans of The Wave will no doubt be reassured that the old favorites still anchor the menu. We didn't have a chance to try the pizza, but I saw a man leaving the takeout entrance with a tower of pizza boxes, so I guess that can be taken as a testimonial to its continued high quality.

As we entered, I had spied corn chowder among the blackboard specials, and that was enough to perk me up. The day's rain had ushered in cooler temperatures, so hot soup in July didn't seem like a foolish notion.

But first things first. Julia, our exemplary server, brought us libations: Fish Eye pinot grigio ($5) for me and a Bombay gin and tonic ($4.50) for my husband, who groused that the lime had not been squeezed into the drink.

On request, Julia also brought tall glasses of ice water festooned with lemon slices.

Next arrived our soups and salads. Loring proclaimed the New England clam chowder ($3.29) nearly as good as the admirable version made by the previous owners: not too thick of stock, but well supplied with minced clams and diced potatoes.

My cup of corn chowder ($2.95) was a tiny bit too thick for my taste, but possessed a terrific flavor, enhanced, I believe, by bacon bits. It was a very homey and comforting soup.

The salads were nicely composed of crisp greens, red onion and bell pepper rings, crisp cuke slices and a stingy pair of grape tomatoes. Diners can choose salad or soup to precede their dinners, so for us, they were included in the entree price.

Within a half hour of being seated, we were sampling another of the night's specials, clam cakes ($3.75/half-dozen). They were sturdy little fritters, not light like my mom's, but tasty, with plenty of minced clams. Loring invented a new taste sensation by trying one dunked in his leftover blue cheese dressing, though two cups of tartar sauce were provided.

If we had any complaint about the service, it was that the kitchen was too efficient in sending out the courses. Recognizing that there are people in a hurry, we would have appreciated a more relaxed pace.

It also would be helpful to have prices of specials posted on either the blackboard or on a menu insert. Speaking of specials, other offerings that evening included sauteed mussels, grilled swordfish or tuna, Portuguese-style scrod and meatloaf.

My favorite seafood maven chose a classic, scallops St. Jacques ($13.99). A casserole held about eight tender and tasty large scallops baked in a rich, cheesy sauce. A large baked potato swaddled in foil was served alongside, with a portion of sour cream.

To my side of the table, our server delivered chicken parmesan ($11.99). A Dolly Parton-sized boneless chicken breast, breaded and fried, was topped with cheese and a small amount of sauce and baked. The meat was on the dry side, which could have been mitigated with a more generous portion of sauce.

A generous portion of spaghetti topped with sauce partnered the chicken, and a buttered sub roll rounded out the plentiful platter.

When I asked for Parmesan cheese, Julia brought a shaker of appalling powdery stuff that bore no resemblance to the real thing, not even rising to the level of the green canisters sold in supermarkets. I know restaurateurs try to achieve cost savings where they can, but it would be a shame to spoil a fine pizza or plate of spaghetti with this stuff.

From Julia's recitation of desserts, it seemed clear they weren't mostly made in-house. We opted for key lime pie, but it turned out to be unavailable, so we switched to Boston cream pie ($3.50). The yellow cake was moist and the icing nice and chocolatey, but the filling was a peculiar "creme," not the traditional custard. Whipped cream garnished the plate. We polished it off, but it was far from our favorite version of this classic.

Not counting the wine and cocktail, our tab amounted to $41.92, and I carried home about half of my generous entree.

A grilled chicken Caesar salad ($6.99) or a lobster salad plate ($12.95) might be just the thing on a hot summer night. Or choose from baked or fried seafoods, pizzas, burgers, subs, and sandwiches. Bourbon steak tips ($11.49) or carne de espito ($11.99) might tempt the beef lover.

Youngsters can choose from several failsafe options, including a hot dog with fries ($2.99) and chicken fingers with fries ($4.99).

(These prices are from the restaurant's Web site, and may in some cases not be current.)

The Wave's owners have spruced up the bar and back dining room, adding cheerful color, six HDTVs and free entertainment. They seem well on their way to making The Wave the "Cheers" of Marion.